Smart Casual in Summer: What Men Get Wrong

Smart casual is probably the most contentious dress code, which makes sense — the words “smart” and “casual” are in complete conflict with each other. It can be especially perplexing in summer, when people naturally lean toward sandals, shorts, and t-shirts. Which aren’t smart. Or are they…

To find out, I asked two of the smartest guys in menswear to share their tips on looking great and staying comfortable in summer: Peter from the YouTube channel Peter’s Prism, and Dan Hakimi, a menswear writer known as The Second Button on Instagram, who also runs an excellent blog.

We’ll start by covering smart casual summer fabrics and then cover the more common and contentious debates: shorts, t-shirts, and warm weather footwear.

When Should You Dress Smart Casual for Summer?

• If you haven’t been given a dress code, smart casual should be the default for most restaurants, “casual” workplaces, and events where you’ll see colleagues or in-laws
• If you’re unsure of the dress code, it’s always best to lean smart
• The goal is to look clean, tidy, and well-dressed in a relaxed way that’s not stifling in the heat

“At summer work events, dinner parties, dates, engagement parties, or wedding receptions that have signaled that you’re not expected to wear a tie, I lean smarter,” says Dan. “These are occasions where people want to look nice, but without pressure.”

There’s a case to be made that unless you’ve been told to dress more formally, smart casual should be your default dress code. It doesn’t alienate anyone.

“There are also cases where there’s no formal dress code, like a date, a nice bar, or dinner at a nice resort,” adds Dan. “ But even when there’s no dress code, you want to land in that smart casual zone: look good, but not overly formal.”

Best Summer Smart Casual Fabrics for Men

• Cotton fabrics: poplin, sateen, seersucker
• Not cotton: Linen, tropical wool, hemp, ramie
• Synthetics like polyester and spandex hamper breathability
• If this information is available, opt for loose weaves over tight weaves

If you already have smart casual outfits you like and you want a more summer friendly version, you should learn a little about fabrics.

“Obviously linen is good, though I think seersucker is probably more breathable than linen. In most cases, it might be the most breathable fabric out there,” says Dan. “Summer weight wools can be fantastic too. You want to look for wools described as high twist or tropical wool.”

I’ve got a tropical wool suit from Proper Cloth, while Peter has a more casual pair of tropical wool pants from Wills on Huckberry.

Hemp and ramie are linen alternatives that are rare, but they can be solid picks as well. Just make sure you’re not getting something like, say, a 14-ounce denim made with hemp. Even lightweight denim isn’t an especially breathable weave, particularly if it’ heavier than 11 ounces.

Best cotton fabrics for summer smart casual

“Cotton poplin and plain weaves are generally going to breathe better than denim or a twill weave,” says Dan.

Cotton sateen, often found on fatigue pants, is pretty summer-friendly for a fabric that’s so durable. But if durability isn’t your primary concern, look for a plain weave like poplin; I’m in Buck Mason’s poplin chinos above.

Peter, on the right, is wearing seersucker, which might be the best fabric for summer, period. It’s 100 percent cotton, but it’s puckered in a way that keeps it from sticking to your skin. If you’re going with a seersucker jacket, I prefer wearing something short-sleeved underneath it to maximize the benefits.

Also worth noting for summer are really open weaves like crochet knits and cotton mesh.

“They’re a little more thick and voluminous than you might expect for summer wear, but you actually want that separation so that air can flow between your skin and your clothes,” says Peter.

“If you get a white color or very light color, transparency can be an issue,” says Dan. “So either get a dark color or make sure that the fabric is thick enough to be opaque. Or wear an undershirt.”

Are Stretch Fabrics Good for Summer Smart Casual?

If something’s stretchy, it’s made with synthetics like elastane or polyurethane, and it won’t breathe as well as an all-natural fabric that’s otherwise identical as far as the weight and weave go.

Still, you can minimize such issues. Peter’s tropical wool pants from Wills have two percent spandex, but the fact that they’re made from wool and have a loose, billowy fit helps to mitigate the stuffiness.

“Wool’s natural thermoregulation seems to counteract the elastane,” adds Dan. “A relaxed fit also helps tremendously. I sometimes wear huge pants with their own airflow.”

The main takeaway: avoid synthetics if you can, but if they’re incorporated into one of these aforementioned breathable fabrics or they’re in a looser fitting garment, it’s less of an issue.

Are Shorts Smart Casual?

• If you’re not sure, avoid shorts
• If wearing shorts, stick to chino shorts no shorter than 7 inches
• Avoid denim, cargo, gym, and board shorts

“It depends on the occasion,” says Dan. “For a backyard dinner at your boss’s house or a casual resort setting, shorts might be okay. For a smart casual wedding, definitely not. Sometimes ‘smart casual’ leans more ‘smart,’ sometimes it leans more ‘casual.'”

If you’re unsure, it’s safer to skip shorts altogether. Many people consider shorts to be inherently casual.

“I’d never wear shorts to a smart casual event unless I knew it was something relaxed, like a backyard pool party,” says Peter.

“Recently, I picked up some longer, black cotton shorts from Todd Snyder,” says Dan. “They’re not exactly dressy, but I’d consider wearing them at an outdoor bar, if that’s considered smart casual.”

Overall, lightweight, breathable trousers are much less likely to raise eyebrows. But something like my white La Paz Pleated Shorts or my Flint and Tinder 365 chino shorts would be the ideal kind of shorts when they’re appropriate.

But you’d be surprised how controversial it is among menswear guys to wear shorts anywhere outside the beach or the gym — Peter thinks that if you’re not the one hosting, you should default to trousers.

Are Jeans Smart Casual?

• They’re likely acceptable, but chinos are preferable

Jeans are controversial. After all, they might be the most casual pants that aren’t sweats.

“Contrast stitching, rivets, the five-pocket style, the denim itself — they all push toward the casual end of the spectrum,” says Dan. “Smart casual is a vague dress code, so there might be occasions where your classic jeans are appropriate, but I would generally err on the side of somewhat dressier. So, chinos.”

You’ll definitely see people wearing jeans at smart casual events, but that doesn’t mean they’re getting it right. It’s better to be slightly overdressed than underdressed. If you’re choosing between jeans and chinos, go with the chinos. It’s safer and it still looks great.

Are Polo Shirts Smart Casual?

• Yes; solid colored pique polos are best
• Avoid synthetic fabrics and prominent logos

When I think of smart casual for summer, a polo shirt comes immediately to mind.

Dan cautions that it’s best to avoid synthetic polos or something festooned with logos. A classic pique polo fits the smart casual dress code perfectly, and remember that solid colors are always a little smarter than something striped or patterned.

That’s something to keep in mind if you’re wearing anything else that’s a little more borderline: for instance, if you must wear shorts or sneakers and have the option of a solid or patterned shirt, go with solid.

Are T-shirts Smart Casual?

• No, smart casual means a collared shirt

The three of us argued a lot on this topic. I, the author, firmly believe that if smart casual means anything, it means “no t-shirts.”

“I will say, there are some jersey knit t-shirts out there that are a little smarter,” argues Dan, referring specifically to a model from The Anthology he’s wearing above. “People can tell they’re smarter; they look like a short-sleeved sweater.”

“Personally, I would not wear a t-shirt to a smart casual event,” says Peter. “But Dan’s absolutely right, t-shirts can be cut in such a way that they look very elegant.”

I think that your average host won’t appreciate the difference between a nice t-shirt and a run-of-the-mill brand. Plus, it’s worth noting that if a smart casual dress code is in any way being enforced — say, a host is granting entry to a restaurant — they’ve likely been told that t-shirts don’t fit the bill.

Remember the core rule: if it’s a maybe, it’s a no. Limit the chances of (at best) eyebrows being raised or (at worst) getting turned away at the door.

The exception would be a t-shirt under a sport jacket.

Are Camp Collar Shirts Smart Casual?

• This is the most casual button up shirt
• They’ll probably be fine, but opt for more muted colors/designs if you can

Short-sleeved, untucked, festooned with patterns — camp collar shirts are probably the most casual button-up shirt, but they are button-up shirts. They’re probably fine for smart casual, though they aren’t far from the borderline.

“I think they lean casual because they’re often patterned or made from fabrics like rayon,” says Dan. “The pattern and the color matter. If it’s turquoise and covered in lightning bolts, it’s too casual.”

I love a good camp collar shirt, and the fact that it has a collar and it buttons all the way down will probably override any concerns that it’s too casual. But… I did say that if something’s borderline, then it’s best to avoid it.

If you’re wearing a camp collar shirt, stick with muted colors and patterns. Flint and Tinder, Faherty, and OAS have some subtle options.

Best Smart Casual Summer Shoes

• If the shoes are leather and they cover your toes, you should be fine
• Loafers reign supreme here
• Plain leather sneakers (not gym shoes) won’t be out of place

I think there are two rules to follow here: don’t show your toes and wear footwear made of leather. If you’re following those guidelines, you’ll probably be fine. Just make sure your leather sneakers are relatively minimalist and intended for casual wear and not working out.

Loafers

Loafers are perhaps the best smart-casual shoe.

“There are different kinds of loafers, like penny versus tassel versus horsebit, and I’ve had arguments over which is the most casual,” says Dan. “But if we’re talking smart casual and not which kind to wear with a suit, I think just about any traditional loafer will work.”

Ideally, you’d avoid overly chunky or colorful loafers — we’re thinking about the bulky loafers with luggy soles that are so popular with Gen Z. Still, if you’re following the rest of these guidelines, even those will pass.

My favorite summer loafers are from Astorflex (for lightness), Grant Stone (for leather choices), and Oak Street Bootmakers.

Espadrilles

Espadrilles are a little known option for summer shoes that look a little like cotton slippers. Originating in southern Spain, they’re lightweight, breathable, and traditionally made with jute soles.

“There is a question of smart versus casual,” says Dan. “I think of espadrilles as pretty casual.”

“I know some guys talk about wearing espadrilles with a suit,” says Peter. “It can work, but only with a casual suit and in the right setting, like a linen suit paired with a camp collar shirt.”

These are indeed pretty casual, but hey, they cover your toes. In a world where a smart casual dress code will see plenty of guys turn up in gym shoes and jeans, espadrilles will probably be seen as smart enough.

Can sneakers be smart casual?

• Yes; just make sure the design is simple and not intended for working out
• Stick to leather sneakers; anything else is too risky

When we talk about sneakers, we don’t mean workout sneakers or basketball sneakers. We mean quality leather sneakers, the kind described as “minimalist” or “lifestyle”: our favorites are Koio, Luca, Thursday, or you can look at Goral and Crown Northampton for seriously high-end sneaks.

“They can do great, and they’re really common,” says Dan. “The fact is, you’ll fit in. A lot of guys are gonna be wearing those to a smart casual occasion anyway.”

Again: ensure they’re leather and that they’re clearly for casual wear and not the gym.

Are boots good for summer smart casual?

• Desert boots are the go-to for hot weather
• Avoid chunky work boots; opt for more tapered almond toes

Most guys won’t think to wear boots in summer, but if you’re a real boot enthusiast, it’s best to wear something with a tapered toe instead of a bulbous cap toe work boot like Red Wing’s Iron Ranger. Think boots like Thursday’s Captain, anything from Parkhurst, or a nice Chelsea like Grant Stone — that’s an excellent footwear brand for the smart casual space.

But the best boots for summer are desert boots: lightweight, chukka-style boots with suede uppers and crepe soles.

“Desert boots really can take you a lot of places,” says Peter. “They look great with a t-shirt and jeans, but they can also work smart casual and even business casual.”

Can sandals or flip flops be smart casual?

• No; a man’s toes should not be seen in smart casual situations

“No flip flops, no thong sandals,” says Peter. “Even if you’ve got nice toes, no one wants to see that in a smart casual space.”

“There are some people who are offended by any sandals, by a man showing any degree of their foot, but there are more covered-up sandals,” says Dan. “Jacques Olivier has good options that give plenty of airflow but don’t show your toes.”

I like to say that toes are the nipples of the feet: best to keep them covered if you’re looking to keep it smart casual.

The Best Smart Casual Sandal: Huaraches

If you really want airflow but you know you can’t show your toes, I think huaraches are crazy underrated. Made with woven strips of leather, they’re the only shoe I can comfortably wear without socks.

Mine are from Luca, but they don’t sell them anymore. Google around!

Wrapping up

That’s our take on smart casual in summer. There are a lot of “definitely suitable”s and a lot of “maybe”s, but I think there are two main takeaways: if you’ve been given a dress code, you’re meant to avoid any “maybe”s: a solid colored collared shirt, lightweight trousers, and loafers are ideal.

If you are wearing a “maybe,” just make sure you’re only wearing one and that the rest of your outfit follows the dress code pretty conservatively. Good luck!

Follow our experts: The Second Button has a website and a thriving Instagram, while Peter’s Prism is on YouTube and Instagram.